In the year 2000, in the late Autumn, I set out on the road to Santiago de Compostela. The route I chose was the Camino Frances which originates in France. I travelled to Burgos in Spain to begin my journey. To attempt the complete pilgrimage from a starting point in France would be foolish at … Continue reading The Road to Santiago
Tuesday 5th September 2000 Burgos
Tuesday 5th September 2000 Burgos I slept well, got my Pilgrims' Passport stamped then found a cafe for my first Pilgrims breakfast - a Bocadillo Frances - (scrambled egg in a roll). Then I was off to explore Burgos. The city was packed with tourists and peregrinos (pilgrims). I found a seat near the Cathedral … Continue reading Tuesday 5th September 2000 Burgos
Wednesday 6th September 2000 Burgos to Hontanas
Wednesday 6th September 2000 Burgos to Hontanas I walked nearly 30 km yesterday and I am suffering for it today. I have two big blisters on one foot and my muscles ache. Hontanas is a medieval village with narrow streets and more horses and carts than cars. It is a magical place where the ghost … Continue reading Wednesday 6th September 2000 Burgos to Hontanas
Thursday 7th September 2000 Hontanas to Castrojeriz
Thursday 7th September 2000 Hontanas to Castrojeriz By 6.00am I was awake, had packed my mochilla in the dark, washed, dressed and was out on the road walking by 7 o' clock. My breakfast was an apple and a bottle of tap water. At midday I parted company with the Norwegians and the American girl. … Continue reading Thursday 7th September 2000 Hontanas to Castrojeriz
Friday 8th September 2000 Castrojeriz
Friday 8th September 2000 Castrojeriz My feet ache so I’m having a day of rest. This Refugio has many beds, I hope, but it does not open for a while yet. As soon as I have a 'cama' (bed or bunk) I will take a walk around the town. There seem to be lots of … Continue reading Friday 8th September 2000 Castrojeriz
Saturday 9th September 2000 Castrojeriz to Fromista
Saturday 9th September 2000 Castrojeriz to Fromista If sweat contains DNA then bits of me are scattered from Castrojeriz to here (Fromista). I climbed a large hill (or small mountain) today with 12 kilos on my back and too much beer from yesterday in my stomach. My sweat dripped and sizzled as it hit the … Continue reading Saturday 9th September 2000 Castrojeriz to Fromista
Sunday 10th September 2000 Carrion de los Condes
Sunday 10th September 2000 Carrion de los Condes Today I walked 20+ km in 40 degrees and more. I was so weary that I didn’t even bother to join the queue at the Refugio. Instead I found the first cheap hostal in Carrion de Los Condes and booked in. I spent a long time under … Continue reading Sunday 10th September 2000 Carrion de los Condes
Monday 11th September 2000 Ledigos
Monday 11th September 2000 Ledigos What a day and it’s only 2.30pm. Rain and more rain today. I hardly saw another soul on the Camino. I am sitting on my bed in a private Refugio - (hostal) in a medieval village called Ledigos. My supper lies beside me an enormous bocadillo of cheese and chorizo to … Continue reading Monday 11th September 2000 Ledigos
Tuesday 12 September 2000 – Ledigos to Sahagun
Ledigos to Sahagun 12th September 2000 Things begin to get a bit disjointed. The daily routine of the Camino should impose an order to one’s days but you lose track of time nevertheless. I was taken aback when a glance at the date on my watch revealed it was Wednesday. ( I later resolved to get either a … Continue reading Tuesday 12 September 2000 – Ledigos to Sahagun
Wednesday 13th September 2000- El Burgo Ranero
Wednesday 13th September 2000- El Burgo Ranero Travelling from Sagahun was hot, hot, hot. I kept my head well covered and drank regularly. The water was tepid but welcome and vital. Eventually a mirage appeared on the horizon - the Refugio for tonight. El Burgo Ranero – Early afternoon - in the Refugio God only … Continue reading Wednesday 13th September 2000- El Burgo Ranero
Thursday 14th September 2000 – Mansilla de Mulas
A very hard slog for 15 miles or more today. There were no fountains on this stretch so we had to carry extra water. We dressed in the dark and after a quick wash and breakfast we set off about 7.00am to take advantage of the cool of the morning. The senda (path) was well maintained and marked which … Continue reading Thursday 14th September 2000 – Mansilla de Mulas